“Are you serious?” I groaned as we came to what appeared to be a dead end due to a missing bridge on the Flathorn Lake Hiking Trail. It was a perfect summer day in northeast Minnesota, but our feet were drenched from hiking through the dewy grass, and I was not looking forward to climbing over and under all those downed trees again. I hopped down to the Little Isabella River to assess the situation. This would be an easy crossing during low water, but considering the wet summer we’d had—and that I intended to write a story about this magical place—we opted to turn around and head back.
I was hot, frustrated, and ready to call off the hike. But at the same time, I was really looking forward to sharing this magical, secluded place with my spouse. When we returned to the trailhead, I immediately ran up to the National Forest sign to see if there was information I may have missed. Indeed, there was, and after studying the detailed map, we headed clockwise in the other direction to enjoy an out-and-back hike along the hot, buggy, and beautiful Flathorn Lake Trail.
Minnesota Summers
“Ugh,” I sighed to my husband while refilling our water bottles near an urban lake during a long Sunday morning bike ride. “We still haven’t swum in a lake this year. How does this happen almost every summer?”
“You could swim here,” he replied.
“No thanks,” I responded as he glanced over with a smile.
No matter how busy summer gets, there are a handful of activities that can’t be missed during our short Minnesota summers. And at the top of that list is swimming in one of northeast Minnesota’s pristine, crisp, clean lakes. So that evening, I devised a plan for a day trip to one of my favorite hidden gems.
Road Trip
The following Saturday morning, we got up early and packed the truck with hiking shoes, swimwear, towels, paddleboards, snacks, water, cold beverages, and a few extra provisions just in case we decided to spend the night at a neighboring campground. The sun was just coming up, and it was already hot and humid—a perfect day to head to the lake.
We arrived at Flathorn Lake mid-morning, and as I expected, we had the place to ourselves. But we still parked mindfully in the moderately sized parking area since it was a blazing hot Saturday. We wasted no time hitting the trail since it was so hot and humid, and we were eager to get to the water. In my rush to hurry up and finish the hike, I completely missed the detailed sign that was put there to inform me that the bridge was out.
Hiking the Flathorn Lake Trail
During my previous visit to Flathorn Lake several years earlier, I had hiked clockwise. Wanting to experience the trail from the other direction, we opted to hike it counterclockwise. The grass was high and wet, and I lost count of the number of trees we had to crawl over and under. This isn’t unusual in the Superior National Forest and Boundary Waters Canoe Area Wilderness (BWCAW). While they do their best to maintain trails, boat launches, and recreation areas, they don’t have the dedicated staff you’d find in a state park. So I didn’t think much of it until we came to the missing bridge.
After snacking on handfuls of perfectly plump wild blueberries and a little bit of a pep talk, we were ready to try again. This time, we hiked clockwise and enjoyed a well-maintained trail that had been recently weed-whipped. The only obstacle was the abundance of deer flies.
Even with the bridge being out, this is a lovely hike I’d be delighted to do again. If you hike the trail out and back, as we did, the hike will be approximately three miles and take one to two hours. If you’re able to hop across the rocks where the bridge once stood, plan to hike about two and a half miles.
Fabulous Flathorn Lake
After our hike, it was time for the real reason we drove four hours north—to swim in a crisp, clean, north country lake. Unlike many lakes in northeast Minnesota, Flathorn Lake has a nice sandy bottom perfect for swimming. But please use caution. While it’s relatively easy to get to, it’s quite remote, and there is, of course, no lifeguard on duty.
Like many lakes in the region, the water in Flathorn Lake has the color of a light cup of tea. Although it might look alarming to someone who has never encountered these tannin-rich waters, there’s nothing to worry about. It’s perfectly safe to swim in and even drink after being filtered. The Minnesota Pollution Control Agency has a helpful FAQ about these naturally occurring dark waters that’s worth checking out here.
After we cooled off, we grabbed our lunch and enjoyed it in the shade of the large jack pine that stands guard over the picnic area. There are few places in Minnesota where you can enjoy lakefront solitude on a hot summer Saturday, so we were sure to savor every moment.
Once we tired of lying in the quiet shade, it was time to hit the water again. We grabbed our paddleboards, paddles, and PFDs and started exploring the lake. It was relatively windy that day, but the location and size of Flathorn Lake made it a wonderful place to paddle. Eventually, it was time to get out of the sun. When we returned to the picnic area, three folks who appeared to have walked there were napping in the shade. Those were the only other visitors we saw at Flathorn Lake that day.
Exhausted from an early morning and a long day of fun in the sun, we decided to head home. On our way back, we chatted about the wonders of Flathorn Lake and how it was the perfect first swim of the year in a northern Minnesota lake.
Planning Your Visit to Flathorn Lake
Getting There: The entrance to Flathorn Lake can be found less than a mile off Mitiwan Lake Road, which intersects with Highway 1, 28 miles from Highway 61 or 33 miles from Ely.
Facilities: The rustic site offers a clean vault toilet, hand-pumped well, picnic tables, and fire rings with grills.
Supplies: The nearest towns with gas and supplies are Ely (33 miles northwest) and Finland (23 miles southeast). You’ll want to bring everything you need or stop on the way.
Camping Options: If you’re looking to spend the night, you’ll find the quiet and quaint Little Isabella River National Forest Campground just five minutes east. More than half of the sites at Little Isabella are available first-come, first-served. Ten minutes to the west is the McDougal Lake National Forest Campground with another 13 first-come, first-served campsites. Reservations are available at both if you’re planning more than a week in advance.
Trail Notes: Be aware that the bridge may be out. Check the trailhead sign for current conditions and consider hiking clockwise for better trail maintenance and the option to do an out-and-back if needed.
More info:
