Fall BWCA canoe trip tips

Autumn leaves scatter across portage trails, carrying the rich scent of earth and decay. (All photos and video Pam Wright/Quetico Superior Wilderness News)

A slight chill hangs in the air. Maple trees begin turning deep red at their tips. Purple aster dots the portage trails. Red squirrels gather food for winter, and beavers reinforce their lodges with mud. Fall settles into the Boundary Waters Canoe Area, bringing solitude and silence. The weather shifts, winter will be here soon. We offer eight tips to help you plan a canoe trip during the autumn, also known as the shoulder season. With thoughtful planning, solid preparation, and some experience, you can enjoy one of the best times to explore the northwoods.

A storm front blows in from the west. If you see it, find a campsite or get off the water as soon as possible.

The Boundary Waters Canoe Area Wilderness (BWCAW) ranks as the most visited wilderness in the United States. Summer visitors often encounter other paddlers, and campsites can sometimes be hard to find. But fall brings a special experience in the million-acre wilderness. Leaves turn fiery colors, bugs begin to die off, and the water is relatively warm. Most of all, you’ll find plenty of solitude. We’ve put together eight tips to help you plan a safe and comfortable adventure.

Watch the sky

Weather is the most important factor to consider when planning a fall (shoulder season) wilderness canoe trip. While you might enjoy sunny, 75-degree days, rain or even snow flurries often arrive by October. According to AccuWeather, September temperatures usually range from highs of 63–70°F to lows of 40–48°F. In October, highs average around 50–51°F and lows around 33–34°F. Cold, rainy days increase the risk of hypothermia. Even during warmer or drier years, prepare for colder temperatures and the possibility of rain.

Having some basic knowledge of clouds and what they indicate may be helpful as well. For example, according to the National Weather Service, big, puffy cumulus clouds are all capable of producing storms.

Choosing a campsite

In the summer, exposed campsites with granite slabs are popular. In the autumn, however, those sites will make you vulnerable to wind and rain.

Instead, choose a site with natural protection from the elements. Consider wind direction and pick a spot that captures morning sunlight for added warmth. The land will help block the wind. Also, avoid low-lying areas where cold air sinks. Then, set up your tent near natural windbreaks like large boulders or thick trees.

Before you set up your tent and kitchen area, check for hazards like leaning dead trees or branches that could fall. Keep your canoe secure. Always pull your canoe onto land and tie it to a tree for safety.

Choose campsites that block fall wind and rain for the best protection.

Bring good rain gear

Getting soaking wet and cold isn’t fun. Plus, it causes cold-related illnesses. Pack dependable rain gear for shoulder season trips. Choose rain pants with snaps or lower leg zippers for easy on and off. Look for a rain jacket made from breathable, waterproof, and windproof fabric with zippered pockets. Bright colors help increase visibility in case of an emergency.

As a wilderness canoe guide, I always pack two sets of rain gear if the forecast includes a lot of rain. I use one set while paddling; it always gets damp from rain or perspiration, and the other set in camp. Once I get to camp, I set up the group tarp first to create a dry space to work under. Then I switch into dry clothes and, if needed, the second set of rain gear. This routine has helped me avoid mild hypothermia, especially on rainy, 35-degree days.

Pick rain gear that’s one size larger than your regular clothes so you can layer underneath.

Reliable, brightly colored rain gear will keep you dry and help others spot you in an emergency.

Stay warm and dry

Wearing layers helps you manage fall temperatures more effectively. Try to keep yourself from getting too hot or too cold and aim for “just right.” Bring warm base layers made of merino wool and fleece. This means a mid-weight (warmer) top and bottoms that can double as sleepwear. If the forecast calls for especially wet or cold conditions, bring two sets, one for travel, one for camp.

Wear clothing made from wool, flannel, fleece, or synthetic materials. These fabrics wick moisture, and some will help you stay warm even when damp.

My hands are prone to feeling cold, so I always carry more than one set of gloves. Protect your hands by using neoprene or waterproof insulated gloves while paddling. Pack one or two pairs of insulated gloves for use around camp.

Protect your feet! Choose muck boots or warm hiking boots with good grip, and pair them with merino wool socks. Traction matters on wet rocks that litter portage trails, and insulation helps keep your toes warm.

Keep your head warm with a fleece-lined hat or beanie. Use a buff to block the wind and protect your face. It also helps keep your face warm, especially while you sleep.

If you travel in October, treat your trip like an early winter adventure and prepare accordingly. Warm, dry layers are essential. Place everything into dry bags or ziplock bags.

To protect you from the weather, bring a reliable 3-season tent with a full-coverage rainfly. Bring a tarp large enough for your group to hang out under, cook, and play games. If you’re traveling in the rain, pack a thermos of hot cocoa and enjoy a cup at lunch or before you head down a portage trail.

It’s time for hot tea as we sit under a tarp while early October snow flurries fall.

Sleep well

There’s nothing worse than sleeping cold on a canoe trip. Choose a sleeping bag rated 10–20 degrees warmer than the expected lows. Add a sleeping bag liner to trap heat and keep moisture out of your sleeping bag insulation. Liners also act like bed sheets, helping keep your bag clean and dry. If you don’t own a warm bag, remember that outfitters rent all kinds of canoe camping gear.

Avoid burying your face in your sleeping bag. Exhaled moisture can reduce the insulation’s loft, making it colder. Instead, use a face buff to keep your face warm while letting your bag stay dry.

Make sure you stay toasty from the ground up. Use a warm sleeping pad or double up pads. Sleeping pads use R-values to measure insulation. So, the higher numbers mean more warmth. Look for a pad with an R-value of 7 or higher, or stack two pads together.

At the end of the day, eat a high-calorie, high-fat dinner and have a snack before bed. That extra fuel stokes your internal furnace and helps keep you warm through the night.

A small shower blows through on Newton Lake in the BWCAW.

Water safety

Lakes may still feel swimmable in early to mid-September, but they cool rapidly. Plan your travel days carefully and always wear a life jacket. So many comfortable options exist, but a style with zippered pockets proves handy.

Many shoulder-season emergencies involve water. When planning your trip, remember that help may be hours or days away. Three search and rescue teams serve northeastern Minnesota. Volunteer teams from St. Louis, Cook, and Lake counties often respond to cold water incidents and hypothermia.

Cold water causes drownings in the BWCAW each year. “In the history of the rescue squad, there have been 507 water fatalities,” Rick Slatten, Captain of the St. Louis rescue squad, told MPR News. “Only 14 were wearing life jackets.”

Avoid paddling in strong winds unless you have experience. Even 15 mph winds can challenge and tire you. If conditions look risky, stay at camp and wait. Winds often calm in the morning and again in the early evening. If you paddle, stay near shore and paddle directly or at a 45º angle into waves. Use islands and other landforms to block the wind.

Stay flexible with your plans. You may need to change or shorten your route depending on the conditions.

Enjoy the solitude

In the autumn, kids return to school, and many people settle back into their post-summer routines. This makes the wilderness noticeably quieter. Open campsites are usually easier to find in the fall. Soft fog drifts through the morning light, especially when the water is calm. Shorter days give campers more opportunity to enjoy the spectacular night sky. In 2020, authorities designated the BWCAW as an International Dark Sky Sanctuary. Carry a night sky chart or download the SkyView Lite app to identify celestial bodies even without cell coverage.

The BWCAW permit regulations change mid-fall. Quota permit season ends on September 30. From October 1 through April 30, day-use and overnight visitors only need a self-issued permit to enter the wilderness. These permits don’t require reservations or recreational fees. You can find them at trailhead entry point kiosks, ranger stations, outfitters, and other cooperating locations.

Let someone know your plans

Finally, don’t forget to tell someone where you’re going. Leave an itinerary with an emergency contact at home, which includes your expected return time. Be sure to list your starting and ending entry points, as well as any lakes you plan to visit. Call them as soon as you’re off the water and have a signal. Provide the names and numbers of emergency contacts in case you miss your exit time. Consider carrying a satellite communicator, which most outfitters rent. You don’t need to keep it on, but it will give your family and friends peace of mind. For extra security, I keep mine in the pocket of my life jacket.

Honestly evaluate your experience, fitness, and skills before heading out on a fall trip. Choose a shorter route on smaller lakes so you can bail quickly if needed. Shoulder-season trips come with higher risks, but with the right preparation, they can also bring incredible rewards. Soft golden light reflecting on the lake at the end of the day will create a lasting memory for years to come.

Thinking of going next fall? Start by planning your adventure using large-scale topographic maps that cover both the eastern and western regions of the BWCAW. Be sure to check out our additional resources to help you plan a successful adventure.