Devil’s Kettle in Judge C.R. Magney State Park is a place of myth, lore, and legend. For years, little was known about the mysterious Devil’s Kettle waterfall that splits in two as it tumbles down ancient volcanic rock—part of the water falling 50 feet into a pool and the other portion disappearing into a giant pothole. The waterfall isn’t the only legend at this relatively quiet North Shore state park. Many tall tales have been told about the nearly 200-step stairway that leads to this waterfall and the strenuous hike back.
The park was established in 1957 as Brule River State Park. Then in 1963, the Minnesota legislature selected this park as a memorial to the late Judge Magney and changed the name to Judge C.R. Magney State Park. Magney is known for being instrumental in establishing 11 state parks and waysides along Lake Superior.
Just 15 miles east of Grand Marais, Judge Magney State Park is one of the quieter parks that hugs Minnesota’s infamous North Shore of Lake Superior. Even during the busy fall color season, I’ve been able to find parking and enjoy low-key hikes without the crowds of more popular fall color destinations. I’m unsure whether it’s the lore of the 200 steps or the long drive along Highway 61 that keeps this park quiet. Whatever it is, I simply enjoy it.
Why hike to Devil’s Kettle
With only nine miles of hiking trails, Judge Magney State Park is one of the least expansive North Shore parks. Although I’m an avid hiker who enjoys long hikes and lots of miles, I always enjoy visiting this park. The park has a remote and undeveloped feel to it. And in my opinion, there’s a very high reward-to-effort ratio. The hike to Devil’s Kettle is just over a mile in each direction but there are countless jaw-dropping spots to stop and take in nature’s majesty, snap a few photos, and catch your breath.
How to get to Devil’s Kettle
If you’re driving east–toward Canada–from Grand Marais, the entrance to the park will be on your left. If you don’t have a Minnesota State Park vehicle permit, you’ll need to stop at the pay station before heading to the parking area. Since cell service is spotty and the ranger station is not always staffed, it’s best to have your permit ready before you arrive. You can learn more about buying your state park vehicle permit here.
Once your permit is secured, follow the one road that ends at the parking area. You’ll pass a road on your left that turns into the small campground. Keep going straight and you’ll be ready to hike in minutes. You’ll find toilets, water, and trash in the parking area. As always, be sure to pack out anything you pack in.
Facing north—looking toward the toilets—look for a trail that heads to the right. A short walk will bring you to a bridge that will transport you over the Brule River. Look south—to your right—for a glimpse of the big lake. If you’re lucky, you might feel a cool breeze here on your way back from the strenuous hike. Looking north—to your left—is a breathtaking vista of the Brule River. This is a wonderful spot to capture photos of the fall colors.
You’ll find a shaded picnic area just after the bridge where you can enjoy a snack while listening to the songs of the Brule. From here, the trail gains gradual elevation before you reach the infamous stairs that descend to the river before you start climbing again. Pay special attention to trail closures. Flood damage has made sections of the trail challenging to navigate—especially north of Devil’s Kettle.
Just when it’s time to take another breather, you will have arrived at Devil’s Kettle. A viewing platform over a sheer drop-off allows you to take in the wonder of this unique waterfall from a safe distance. Once you catch your breath, turn back the way you came and enjoy the 200-step stairway in the opposite direction.
The hike is just over two miles round trip. Depending on your fitness level and how often you stop to take photos the hike will take anywhere from 30 minutes to two hours. Don’t let the legendary stairs scare you. Use your best judgment, but with plenty of places to stop and rest, this hike is manageable for most people.
But where does the water go?
I mentioned that for many years, scientists were uncertain where the water that disappears into the pothole eventually ends up. During our early years of exploring Minnesota’s Arrowhead region, I enjoyed many fun—and often ridiculous—conversations about the mystery of Devil’s Kettle with my spouse and good friends. Turns out, we weren’t alone. In an article published in Minnesota Conservation Volunteer Magazine, Cheri Zeppelin notes that “Over the years, curious onlookers would sometimes toss a stick or another buoyant item into the swirling waters of the pothole to see if it would resurface downstream. Nothing ever did.”
In that same article, Zeppelin shares how the mystery was finally solved. “In late fall 2016, hydrologists Heather Emerson and Jon Libbey measured water flow above Devil’s Kettle at 123 cubic feet per second. Several hundred feet below the waterfall, the water was flowing at 121 cubic feet per second. ‘In the world of stream gauging, those two numbers are essentially the same and are within the tolerances of the equipment,’ Green explains. ‘The readings show no loss of water below the kettle, so it confirms the water is resurging in the stream below it.’”
More to explore
If you’re up for more hiking, check out the one-mile Timberdoodle interpretive trail. This trail can be accessed on the west end of the main parking area. For a longer hike, use the Gauthier Creek Trail to connect to the Superior Hiking Trail (SHT). The section of the SHT between Judge C.R. Magney State Park and Grand Marais is breathtaking and quite underrated.
There’s a small campground at Judge Magney State Park and again, the limited popularity means it’s easier to secure campsite reservations. If you’re into fishing, I’ve heard great things about trout fishing in the Brule River. Be sure to have a valid Minnesota fishing license and a trout stamp. Finally, since there are no groomed ski trails, this is a spectacular spot for snowshoeing in the winter. You can learn everything else you need to know about Devil’s Kettle and Judge C.R. Magney State Park here.
While small in comparison to many recreation sites in northeast Minnesota, Judge C.R. Magney State Park is a leader in the effort-to-reward ratio. And the hike to Devil’s Kettle is sure to take your breath away. So next time you visit Minnesota’s North Shore, be sure to schedule a few hours to explore this underrated Minnesota State Park.
Holly Scherer is a Minnesota-based writer, photographer, outdoorswoman, and guide. She’s most at home in the great outdoors; camping, hiking, paddling, cycling, and gardening. When she’s not on an adventure, she and her husband live in the Twin Cities where they’re fond of saying, “home is where we store our outdoor gear.”