“Which trail do you like better? The Mesabi or Gitchi-Gami?” I asked my spouse on the last day of a long weekend riding the Mesabi Trail. “Oh, this one for sure,” he replied with certainty. “Really?” I asked, a bit surprised. “The Gitchi-Gami is beautiful and one of my favorite places to ride,” he continued. “But this section is so fun. I like that you can ride for miles and miles without having to stop. And with all the hills and twists and turns, it never gets boring. The Gitchi-Gami is amazing, hugging the shore of Lake Superior. But this is gorgeous in its own way. And it’s so peaceful and quiet here. I really enjoyed it and wouldn’t hesitate to ride it again.”
We’ve been looking forward to riding this new section of the Mesabi Trail between Tower and Ely, Minnesota since our first introduction to the trail in 2017. Several times each year I’d hop on the trail’s website to check the progress of the short gaps that remain until the nearly 165 miles of trail are complete. We were ecstatic to hear that the project was completed last summer. But with a jam-packed adventure schedule and plans to thru-hike the Superior Hiking Trail we were forced to put this trip at the top of our adventure wish list for the following year.
Planning our trip to the Mesabi Trail
Of the two of us, trip planning typically falls on me as it’s one of my strengths and something I thoroughly enjoy doing. Although I removed several responsibilities from my overflowing plate this year, I’ve struggled to find the margin to plan our summer adventures. So, by the time we decided which trips we wanted to prioritize, every available reservation and permit was booked solid. That meant securing a campsite reservation was the first priority in planning our trip.
Since the Mesabi Trail runs through Lake Vermilion-Soudan Underground Mine State Park, this is where we prefer to stay. One of the newest additions to the Minnesota State Park’s campgrounds, we appreciate the layout of the private and spacious campsites. Every time we’ve camped here, we were delighted by how quiet it is. While not a priority, we appreciate the Wi-Fi and electricity included in each campsite so we can keep tabs on the weather and make use of our favorite glamping appliances. As a bonus, I love the smell of the birch campfire firewood available for purchase from the park.
With just over 30 campsites, securing a reservation here isn’t easy. It’s a popular spot and reservations are difficult to come by even if you plan well in advance. Bear Head Lake State Park makes a great Plan B and is a short 6-mile ride or drive from the Eagles Nest Trailhead. The HooDoo Point Campground in Tower and the McKinley Park Campground in Soudan offer more camping options. You can explore additional lodging on the trail’s website here.
Even though there were plenty of campgrounds to explore, we were determined to secure a spot at Lake Vermilion-Soudan Underground Mine. After narrowing down some dates, I logged into the State Park reservation website a few times each week until I found a cancellation that worked with our desired dates. With six weeks to prepare, we had plenty of time to create packing lists, menus, and research routes and distances. When the day arrived all that was left to do was to pack up our gear, bikes, and food and head north.
Why ride the Mesabi Trail
“Take a tour on the Mesabi. A single paved trail providing 162 miles of serenity connecting 28 communities in Minnesota’s wild north.” a 12-second video on the trail’s website proclaims. That’s an accurate description to which I would add jaw-dropping beauty.
Traversing over northeast Minnesota’s Iron Range, the Mesabi Trail crosses rivers and ridges through dense forests that hug clear lakes and breathtaking wetlands. “The Mesabi Trail is NOT simply a rail-to-trail conversion – it is not flat & straight. The terrain varies from hilly to flat over the entire length. A few hills will test your stamina going up, and your brakes going down – none are greater than an 8% grade – but some are fairly long.” Reads another accurate description from the Trail’s About page. I’ve cycled most of Minnesota’s paved biked trails and can tell you firsthand that the Mesabi is a special and unique place.
The trail is visually stunning, fun, and challenging indeed. But here are a few more reasons you’ll want to ride the Mesabi.
1. Enjoy the benefits of nature and fresh air
We’ve all heard the innumerable benefits of spending time outdoors. Spending time in nature is said to improve everything from sleep to immunity, mental health, stress, physical fitness, and even productivity. The remoteness of this trail will immerse you in some of the freshest air and natural beauty in the lower 48.
2. Cycling is a fantastic workout
Cycling is one of the best low-impact cardiovascular workouts available. With bikes designed for just about everyone, it’s a sport you can enjoy for a lifetime. And getting out to explore trails like the Mesabi, are sure to keep it interesting.
3. Experience the Northwoods with fresh eyes
At this point, it’s hard to estimate how many miles I’ve hiked, paddled, and biked in northeast Minnesota. And with close to two decades worth of exploring, it’s yet to feel stale. That’s because each of these sports allows me to experience the region from a new perspective.
4. Savor the quiet and solitude
Although there were plenty of fellow walkers and riders using the Mesabi during the weekend of our visit, it never felt crowded. With the long distances between trailheads and its remoteness, you’re sure to enjoy plenty of solitude. And unlike many of the region’s more popular hikes and paddles, there was plenty of parking, even on a busy mid-summer weekend.
Know before you go
The Mesabi Trail has a detailed and easy-to-navigate website that offers resources, maps, distances, trail conditions, trail amenities, and a store to purchase gear and your wheel pass. Wheel passes are required for anyone over the age of 18 using wheels on the trail. There is no charge for walkers, joggers, or wheelchairs. Wheel passes are $20 per year—good for the current calendar year—or you can purchase a three-day pass for $10 as we did. I recommend buying your pass online before you go but if you forget, you can scan and pay at many of the trailheads. When I paid for my passes online, they sent my passes, a map, and a welcome letter by mail which was a nice surprise.
Interested in riding the Mesabi but don’t have a bike? Check out this list of bike shops that offer rentals. When it comes to high-end gear like bikes and canoes, renting is a wonderful way to learn what you like before making a big investment.
If you’re new to the sport, be sure to check out the laws, regulations, and tips on this page. Keep to the right. Ride with traffic. Yield to pedestrians. And learn the three hand signals: right, left, and stop. A full list of trail policies can be found here.
Be prepared
You can use the mile marker map on the trail’s website to plan your ride and estimate mileage. Google Maps has an option to map out bike routes but I find that it’s not always up to date. It does offer a good estimate, however. For anyone planning to stay at the Vermilion Ridge campground at Lake Vermillion-Soudan Underground Mine State Park, here are the distances we recorded.
From the Vermilion Ridge campground to the Kawishiwi Ranger Station and back we logged 44 miles. You can add on the lightly-used state park roads to break 50 miles and get some excellent practice climbing hills.
On day two we rode from the campground to the end of the trail in Soudan. We followed the road from Soudan to HooDoo Point in Tower where we hopped back on the trail and made our way back to Vermilion Ridge for a roundtrip of 19 miles.
On the final day, we rode from the campground to County Highway 88 and back for a total of 33 miles, breaking 100 miles for the weekend and more than 4,800 feet of elevation gain.
Many years ago, we learned the hard way to be prepared for all kinds of weather in Minnesota’s Arrowhead region and this trip was no different. I didn’t check the heat index the first day but I’m certain it was in the 90s. The second day we got caught in a thunderstorm and cut our ride short. On the third day, we delayed our start, waiting for it to warm up because it was so cold. Keep this in mind when planning your packing list.
You’ll find a great checklist of things to bring with you here. To that, I would add more snacks and water than you think you’ll need. We carry two water bottles on longer rides and plan a refill spot along the way. On this trip, we used the Kawishiwi Ranger Station. For long hot rides, we use electrolyte supplements, which we also use during long days of paddling and backpacking. We also carry duct tape and a few doses of antihistamine for bee and wasp stings. Many trailheads—like the one at Eagles Nest—have well-appointed repair stations.
If you enjoy cycling, the Mesabi Trail should not be missed. With its rugged beauty, winding trails, and feeling of solitude, it’s one of the most unique trails in Minnesota. Both my spouse and I are grateful we prioritized this trip to ride this incredible section. Now, we find ourselves back where we began, watching and waiting for the final sections between Tower and McKinley to be completed so we can plan another Mesabi adventure.