When it comes to stunning landscapes, Minnesota’s Arrowhead region is one of the most breathtaking places I’ve explored. From the rocky ridges of the Sawtooth Mountains to the vast boreal forests, and the dramatic mood swings of Lake Superior, the region still takes my breath away just as it did two decades earlier when we first started exploring. There’s magic to behold in every season. The quiet stillness after a fresh winter snow is an experience to behold. Spring waterfalls are nothing short of awe-inspiring. Summer wildflowers and berries love to show off their abundance and beauty. But as much as I love all the seasons, there’s something extra special about fall. Perhaps it’s the brevity of the radiant fall colors or the long nights snuggled up next to a cozy campfire. Whatever it is, there’s something about fall that makes me want to slow down and savor each fleeting moment. And one of my favorite places to take in all the wonder fall has to offer is on Minnesota’s Gunflint Trail.
My favorite months to get outdoors in Northeast Minnesota are September and October. Aside from peak fall colors weekends, most of the crowds have subsided, as have the bugs. As someone who is always on the go, the shorter days and longer nights force me to slow down. The weather always keeps me on my toes with everything from excessive heat warnings to rain that feels like it will never end to dustings of snow, and plenty of perfect days in the sunny 70s. Campfires are more inviting during the cooler fall evenings. And then there’s the magic of the dark northern skies, perfect for stargazing, and if I’m lucky, the northern lights.
But it’s not all rainbows and campfires. As someone who enjoys a great deal of solitude, the weekends when fall colors are at their peak can be a bit overwhelming. From heavy traffic to long lines, and packed trailhead parking lots, my introverted side would rather stay home. Thankfully, there are plenty of places to escape the crowds, especially on weekdays, and after the Minnesota DNR declares that the fall colors are past peak. One of my favorite places to do this is on the Gunflint Trail, one of Minnesota’s most magical National Scenic Byways.
Get to know the Gunflint Trail
The Gunflint Trail begins in the artsy and outdoorsy resort town of Grand Marais, Minnesota, 111 miles, and about a two-hour drive from Duluth. The trail ends 55 miles northwest of Grand Marais at the aptly named Trails End Campground, on the edge of the Boundary Waters Canoe Area Wilderness (BWACW). Many people squeeze a day trip up the Gunflint into their visit to Minnesota’s North Shore of Lake Superior, but in my opinion, the Gunflint Trail can hold its own and deserves more than a day to explore. Especially if you’re a fan of outdoor recreation.
The Gunflint Trail, despite the images one may conjure from its name, is a fully paved highway. But don’t expect to drive the 55 miles in an hour at highway speeds. The trail winds its way up massive hills and around quiet lakes to Trails End and is an experience you’ll want to savor. If you take your time and enjoy the journey, you’ll likely see plenty of wonderful wildlife. I’ve spotted both moose and wolves driving up the trail. But the real magic happens just off the Gunflint Trail.
If you enjoy camping, the Superior National Forest offers seven stunning campgrounds within close proximity to the trail. Three of these are first-come-first-serve only, perfect for those of us who enjoy taking advantage of last-minute adventures during the last sunny 70s of the season. You can learn more about camping in the Superior National Forest here.
The Gunflint Trail is a wonderful way to get to know the BWCAW. With an abundance of entry points, outfitters, and self-issued permitting starting October first, it’s a great way to experience the million-acre wilderness. There’s superb paddling outside the wilderness as well. And fall fishing can be rewarding, but be sure to brush up on the regulations. Lake Trout season, for example, ends on September 30th.
When I think of the Gunflint, I think of watersports, but hiking in the area is just as spectacular. From Minnesota’s highest peak to the mysteries of Magnetic Rock, and the history-rich Centennial Trail, there’s something for everyone. You can browse some of the best hikes along the Gunflint here.
Perhaps fall on the Gunflint is simply calling you to slow down, relax, savor the smells of fall, and marvel at the dark skies. Or maybe like me, you’ll find a way to do it all. Whatever you choose, it will be an experience you won’t soon forget.
Savoring fall solitude on the Gunflint
After wrapping up a weeklong trip of fall hiking on the North Shore with my spouse and some friends, I noticed that the forecast for the upcoming week was my idea of perfection. The entire week was calling for sunny days in the 70s and 50s overnight. In my opinion, there’s no better camping weather. But of course, every campground on the North Shore was booked solid with peak fall colors in full swing. On a whim, I decided to drive up the Gunflint to see if I could find an open first-come-first-serve campsite. Not only did I score one of my favorite campsites, I was shocked to find that the campgrounds were mostly deserted, with only about 15 percent of the sites occupied.
I settled into a lakefront campsite on Flour Lake and spent the afternoon paddling the stunningly calm lake. The next morning, I was treated to an epic sunrise that cut through the fog on the water, something I’d experienced in this very location years earlier. It’s always a magical experience. After sunrise, I made a second cup of camp coffee and drove over to one of my favorite short hikes in all of Minnesota—Honeymoon Bluff. I was delighted to find that the fog was still hanging on, making the fall colors scene one I’ll never forget. Next up was the Caribou Rock Trail. Since the trail is in the BWCAW, I filled out a permit before starting my hike. I brought my coffee and enjoyed coffee and breakfast from an overlook. After the show at Honeymoon Bluff, the vista felt less remarkable, but the forest floor covered in magical fungi made up for my elevated expectations.
I hadn’t hiked the Magnetic Rock Trail since 2011, 4 years after it was devastated by the Ham Lake Fire. While the hike itself is lovely, I was in awe by how the forest had rebounded over the last decade. Clearly, I can’t get enough time on the trail so I headed to the Chik-wauk Nature Center next. We visited the museum years earlier but this day was all about the trails with fabulous views of Saganaga Lake and the surrounding forest. I wrapped up the day with one more hike up Honeymoon Bluff to watch the sunset and then went back to my campsite to marvel at the dark skies.
The next day began with another incredible sunrise and a day of paddling. I again spent the evening next to a cozy fire, staring up at the sky. Another amazing sunrise and more paddling perfection before my last glorious night on the Gunflint.
Plan your own fall colors trip
When many of us plan trips to experience Minnesota fall colors, we reflexively head to the North Shore of Lake Superior. With jaw-dropping overlooks like Shovel Point, Section 13, and Oberg Mountain, the North Shore is hard to beat. But I’ve found equally stunning vistas all across the Arrowhead region, like here on the Gunflint, and to the west in Ely. What really makes these areas remarkable, though, is the absence of the crowds that you’re certain to find daily during fall colors on the North Shore.
You can monitor the progress of Minnesota’s Fall Colors using the DNR’s Fall Color Finder, here. I’ve personally found the colors to be lovely past peak, with the added bonus of abundant quiet and solitude. The Gunflint Trail Association has a wonderful website you can explore here. You can learn more about camping in the Superior National Forest here. If you are just headed up for a weekend, I recommend making reservations. But I’ve never had a problem getting amazing first-come-first-serve campsites on weekdays, even during the peak summer months. Finally, you can find details on all of the BWCAW and National Forest hikes I mentioned here. And explore the trails at Chik-wauk Nature Center here.
I hope this story has inspired you to give the Gunflint Trail more than a drive. Our household has been exploring the area for years and it’s always a new and memorable experience. With beauty and outdoor recreation around every curve, I guarantee you’ll long to experience it again and again.
More information:
- Gunflint Trail Association
- Explore Minnesota: Gunflint Trail National Scenic Byway
- Fall Hike on the Gunflint Trail
Holly Scherer is a Minnesota-based writer, photographer, outdoorswoman, and guide. She’s most at home in the great outdoors; camping, hiking, paddling, cycling, and gardening. When she’s not on an adventure, she and her husband live in the Twin Cities where they’re fond of saying, “home is where we store our outdoor gear.”