“Wow, can you believe we’re the only ones here?” I asked my husband as we stood near the carry-in access at Eighteen Lake in the Superior National Forest. “I’m not surprised,” he responded. “We’re kind of in the middle of nowhere.”
We stumbled upon Eighteen Lake during the early years when we had just begun exploring Minnesota’s North Shore and Arrowhead Region. Long before YouTube, Instagram, and Google Maps were around to clue us in on the must-see spots, we spent days driving around the Superior National Forest using the forest road signs as our only guide.
Much has changed since then. Most of these places are in guidebooks and on Google Maps. And today, I wouldn’t consider Eighteen Lake to be in the middle of nowhere. But the quiet, secluded, rustic charm we fell in love with nearly two decades earlier still remains.
Why You Should Hike Divide and Eighteen Lake Trails
The North Shore of Lake Superior has become a bit of a hot spot for outdoor enthusiasts from around the world. And for good reason. It’s easily one of the most visually stunning places in the world. The weather is mild most of the year. It’s relatively easy to get to. And the abundance of outdoor recreation opportunities could keep you busy for decades.
With its growing popularity, there are also some downsides. Most weekends bring heavy, slow-moving traffic. It’s common to find no available parking at popular trailheads, especially during peak fall colors. And forget about trying to grab lunch unless you want to wait in line, wasting precious time you could be on the trail.
This doesn’t make me less appreciative of this magical place. Watching the sun rise over Lake Superior is one of my favorite experiences. And hiking any section of the Superior Hiking Trail (SHT) always makes for a day well spent.
But just a few miles inland from these well-known destinations lies more than three million acres of recreational land that is much more lightly used. The Eighteen Lake and Divide Lake Trails can be found in the Superior National Forest, not too far from Highway 1 near Isabella. I have hiked both trails several times and have yet to encounter another party. As these recreation sites have become more popular in recent years, you should expect to see other people using the area. But once you get out on the trail, you’ll feel like there’s no one else for miles.
Hiking the Eighteen Lake Trail
If this trail were a tad bit longer, it could easily be a contender for one of my top five hikes in Minnesota. It’s a stunningly gorgeous area. The crystal-clear lake is long and shaped like an axe head if you’re looking at it from the boat launch. The lake is surrounded by a mixed forest of birch, cedar, spruce, and pine with a bit of elevation on the north end that makes for breathtaking overlooks. This is a wonderful place to end the day with an evening paddle or sunset picnic.
The trail begins at the carry-in boat launch. While there’s ample parking, take care when parking to leave space for anglers using the boat launch. The only amenity here is a clean vault toilet—no water—so be sure to bring anything you might need.
The trail is about two and a half miles long and is lovely in either direction. Both sides of the trail near the boat launch feature lovely pine forests. As you make your way along the trail on the west side, opposite from where you started, you’ll notice a change in vegetation. Tall, thin deciduous trees allow more light to hit the forest floor. Here you’ll find tall brush and ferns if you visit during the height of summer. The trail is easy enough to follow, and I’ve never seen poison ivy. But if you’re sensitive to plants and don’t want to deal with ticks, bring a pair of long pants.
On the north end, the widest part of the lake, you’ll find rockier terrain and more elevation, giving way to lovely scenic vistas. Take a moment to slow down and take it all in—the sights, sounds, and smells of this fabulous northern forest.
Hiking the Divide Lake Trail
Adding Divide Lake to Eighteen Lake makes for a perfect day of hiking. At just under two and a half miles, the two trails make almost a five-mile day. Like Eighteen Lake, I have never encountered another hiker on the trail here. But like Eighteen Lake, expect to see others using the recreation site.
Divide Lake has a small three-site first-come, first-served campground. The parking here is very limited. If you’re unable to find a spot that allows easy access to all three campsites, continue east down Wanless Road to a small pull-off that’s right along the hiking route. You’ll find a small vault toilet and a solar-powered water spigot near the campground.
Start your hike by following the path to the left of the sign for the trail. When hiking in the Superior National Forest or Boundary Waters Canoe Area Wilderness (BWCAW), expect to encounter a few obstacles along the way and consider it part of the fun. While these trails are maintained, they don’t have full-time staff like you’ll find in the region’s state parks. So it’s normal to encounter downed trees and tall brush. This has been the case each time I’ve hiked this trail, but it’s still easy enough to carefully navigate.
Forest Road (FR) 172 (Wanless Road) in this area is on the Laurentian Divide, a North American continental divide that separates the Hudson Bay watershed to the north from the Gulf of Mexico watershed to the south, and the Great Lakes-St. Lawrence watershed to the southeast. This means that water on the Divide Lake side of the divide flows toward Lake Superior, and water on the other side of the road at Tanner Lake flows north to Hudson Bay. As you walk along FR 172, take a moment to ponder this fact and how lucky we are to have been born on such an incredible planet.
Just like Eighteen Lake, Divide Lake is a wonderful spot to end the day with an evening paddle or sunset picnic. Divide Lake is a designated stream trout lake that is stocked with rainbow trout each spring and splake each fall, making it a great place to try your luck at catching dinner.
Important Note about Trout Fishing: There are special trout regulations in Minnesota. In addition to an angling license, you must also purchase the trout/salmon stamp. Additional regulations include special hours, a limit of one line, no use of live minnows, and keeping the head, tail, skin, and fins intact for transport. You can read the full list of regulations as well as open seasons here.
Getting to Eighteen and Divide Lakes
From Highway 61 (near Illgen City): Drive north on Highway 1 for approximately 23 miles.
From Ely: Follow Highway 1 south for about 39 miles.
To Eighteen Lake: In Isabella, head east on Wanless Road (FR 172). Follow Wanless Road about one mile to Trappers Lake Road (FR 369). In about 1.5 miles, turn left onto Eighteen Lake Road and travel another half mile. The road to Eighteen Lake can be rough, but is passable in any passenger vehicle. Drive slowly and use caution.
To Divide Lake: From Eighteen Lake, head back toward Trappers Lake Road and turn right to go back the way you came on Wanless Road. When you get to Wanless Road, turn left and travel four miles east. You can’t miss the large sign for the Divide Lake campground.
Planning Your Visit
What to Bring: Water, snacks, long pants, bug spray, picnic supplies, and fishing gear, and/or your canoe, kayak, or paddleboard if desired.
Facilities:
- Eighteen Lake: Vault toilet, ample parking
- Divide Lake: Vault toilet, solar-powered water spigot, limited parking, 3-site campground
Best Time to Visit: Especially lovely in the fall, but beautiful year-round.
If you’re looking for quiet and solitude, you’ll love the trails at Eighteen and Divide Lakes. Pack a picnic and your fishing rod and make a day of it. It’s sure to be an adventure you won’t soon forget.
